![]() Fortunately there was no shortage of gear on the crux and I made quick progress to the next belay. After back coiling the ropes and collecting the gear I set off again. He was blinking hard, clearly trying to process what he’d just gone through. Eventually he arrived breathless, smeared in mud and bleeding from his chin. Coming from below, I could hear loud groans and sharp metallic sounds as ice axes and crampons crashed haplessly together. Whilst belaying Neil it soon became clear that he was already finding it hard. I remember thinking that it didn’t look easy. Just above me I could spy the crux, a short steep band of mossy gritstone and frozen turf. #Mam tor winter seriesTo ease his nerves I agreed to lead and set off over a series of frozen turfy steps to a belay some 30m up. To ease the tension I’d spied the route out earlier that day and laid out a few cairns to help us find the start. This wasn’t helped by the decision to climb the route at night. ![]() Aware of the face’s reputation for loose ground and no little steepness, Neil was somewhat unnerved. ![]() The first time I climbed Blue John Rib was with Neil, a brilliant sports climber and boulderer, who at the time had very little winter experience. Since it faces south and gets a lot of sun, the best conditions are usually found in the weeks around Christmas when the hours of daylight are limited. Unlike the gully, it doesn’t need snow or ice to come into condition, just a long settled period of cold weather. This elegant arête forms the right hand edge of Mam Tor Gully (I) and runs in a straight line for 3 pitches up to the summit’s trig point. Of all the routes on the face, the best has got to be Blue John Rib (III). Blue John Rib is the obvious arete on the left The approach to the south face of Mam Tor. But don’t let this put you off because when the conditions are right the climbing on Mam Tor is very special indeed! #Mam tor winter crackClimbers have to rely instead upon frozen turf and mud, with the help of the occasional gritstone crack for protection. Sadly, shale seems immune to the effects of the cold and simply shatters on contact with ice axe and crampons. Binding the various layers together is impossible in even the coldest of winters. Features from previous years change and in some case disappear altogether. #Mam tor winter PatchIt wasn’t for the want of trying - there's evidence of more than 2 metres of tarmac and gravel being used to patch up some of the cracks! For the winter climber, this means that you’re unlikely to climb the same route twice. Mam Tor’s nickname - “Shivering Mountain” - tells you all that you need to know about the challenges faced by those who climb it! Formed from layers of shale, mud and gritstone, the face is always changing, slipping steadily towards the remains of the A625 below. With a cold snap and a little bit of luck, it’s sometimes possible to climb on all three in a day. ![]() For my money, this means - Mam Tor, Kinder Downfall and Back Tor. What could be better than climbing a line or two and still being back in time for breakfast? Whilst there’s always the chance to nab a “once in a lifetime” route, it's a much safer bet to focus upon those destinations which come quickly into condition. But what really gives me a thrill is getting stuck into winter routes back home in my corner of the Peak District. Don’t get me wrong, I’m happy to make the short trip to Snowdonia or the Lakes, even the Scottish Highlands are well within reach. I think there’s few better things in life than having a winter climb or two on your doorstep. ![]()
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